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View Full Version : Your tips on seperating rams from pump arms



Tesko
12-12-2006, 01:31 PM
I always seem to find myself in the situation of rams just not coming off pump arms.

What tips do you guys have for seperating them?

Draken
12-12-2006, 01:36 PM
if they are stuck and don't want to come off, I will use 2 pairs of channel locks with the jaws either rubber dipped or wrapped in electrical tape, and a small butane torch...

will sit there and heat the collar, keeping the torch moving so as not to discolor anything, and when smoke starts coming out of the threads (where the ram goes into the collar) then I will use the pliers to finish breaking it loose and then pull them apart...

don't know if this is the best way, but works like a charm for me :)

Hammer
12-12-2006, 03:09 PM
Drak you think that might be whats wrong with my Red Gun. With the Rod being Stuck?

k.macocker
12-12-2006, 03:24 PM
Here we go,
5 Steps to Separating Ram Shaft from Pump Arm..

Supplies needed:
-2 pair of small pliers (needle nose are great)
-1 candle
-wet paper towel or wash cloth
-I usually wear 1 leather glove to prevent burns (lol)

Steps:
1. light candle (you do not have to hold the heat source and both hands are available)
2. Fully extend the shaft of the ram and wrap the wet cloth around the base of the shaft to prevent heat transfer into the actual ram body and damaging the seals.
3. With smooth needle nose grip the shaft of the ram as close to the pump arm as possible (careful not to put scars on the ram shaft creating a leak, if threads are showing I like to use a pair of wire cutters to lightly grip the threads).
4. With a second pair of needle nose or wire cutters grip the opposite end of the pump arm.
5. Now hold the end of the pump arm where the shaft enters over the flame while slightly putting twisting pressure on the two. Once the heat transfers to the loc-tite the 2 almost always unscrew from one another very very easily.

If done correctly no marks or scars will be made on the shaft or pump arm. Let the heat do the work and don't bear down twisting with the pliers/cutters. It usually comes free enough that you can unscrew it by hand (hence the gloves, because it's still hot).

Always worked for me.

Then when replacing with a standard pump arm (no locking set screws) wrap the shaft threads heavily in teflon tape to prevent unscrewing while cycling the marker. And next time removal will be much easier.

enjoy,
kmac

Props: Wish I could take credit for this, but Vantrapes suggested this back on AIR-Powered.com long ago, I tried it and have been doing so ever since.

Railgun
12-12-2006, 05:31 PM
I was worried about scoring the ram shaft so I made up a little clampy thingy (yes that IS a technical term. Why do you ask? :D ) to grab the ram's shaft with no chance of damage. And yeah some heat to kill the loctite is still a nice idea.

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Ramshaftwrench.jpg

To make your own you need a little block of aluminium. Drill a hole the same size or just a hair smaller than the shaft, drill the clamping screw holes in two parts, 1/2 sized for tapping and 1/2 for clearance. Tap the cut in half with one of those small "baby" hacksaws so the kerf is thinner. Clean up with a file or sandpaper and yer done. Nothing other than the hole for the shaft is critical. The one in the pic used a scrap of 1/2 inch plate I had handy and 10-32 screws. If you don't have a tap set you could use screws and nuts as well. The file notch is there to remind me of how the peices line up just in case I take it apart so it goes together the same way each time.

Gatorade
12-12-2006, 06:25 PM
Here we go,
5 Steps to Separating Ram Shaft from Pump Arm..

Greatest. Post. Ever. (that's exactly how I do it - candle and all)

chrisshanks
12-12-2006, 07:58 PM
I have always found that all pump arms are threaded for 10-32 (same as your grip frame screws, etc...) this being said, I always keep a spare set of 10-32 threaded nuts in my tool box & at my work bench

simply remove/unthread yourpump arm from your back block & thread the nut onto the back of the pump arm followed by the second nut.

If you tighten the two nuts against each other - you will have a solid 'flat' surface to grab with an adjustable wrench of sorts or whatever you prefer & you are less likely to damage the rear threads of the pump arm, especially if you have an aluminum one

As for the ram shaft (threaded part if you will) the above posted advice is quite good to attack the locktite properly, however....

when I have been in a jamb before, I have resorted to cutting a small amount ofthe ram shaft to be flat & give me a flat surface to grab with a tool - this should not be attempted by the inexperienced. If you remove too much material, you could severly weaken the ram shaft

usually I will take off a bout 1/32" deep by 1/8" long with a tungsten blade for my dremel - just enough to make a flat surface only on one side to grab with the necessay tool (usually needle nose of sorts, vise perhaps)

I would only do the above AFTER applying the necessary amount of heat to the ramshaft/pump arm connection area to free/liquify the locktite

have fun