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View Full Version : New Cocker Owner Questions. Got any?



Vantrepes
02-23-2008, 11:39 PM
One thing I have noticed about my tech articles is that I take a lot of basic cocker know how for granted. I have been trying to write a "Beginners Guide" to cockers, but I can't seem to settle on what should be in it.
So, if you can do me a favor, and list the first questions you had when you first shot or owned a cocker, that would help a lot.

Draken
02-23-2008, 11:45 PM
One thing I get asked a lot is how things work, such as the pnumatics. A lot of people aren't sure on the airflow.

THE Hulk
02-24-2008, 12:24 AM
What should be done for maintainance?
How hard to time?
If I change the bolt (or LPR, or RAM, or 3 Way), what else needs to be adjusted?
How can I easily remove the cocker hose?
How does the noid function?

Thanks,
Jim

pummel u
02-24-2008, 07:42 AM
The first question I had was if the bolt was the only thing in the top tube. I had only been around inline blowbacks at the time.

Deadmeat99
03-01-2008, 06:59 PM
I just got this thing and its chopping balls, turned out I was short stroking it but no one at the field could figure out why I was chopping

OGPrince
03-23-2008, 04:09 PM
I just bought a Karnivor and it has been a mess. I would go over double feeding and velocity adjustments for beginners. Newer manuals tell you to change the velocity with the inline reg, but they don't tell how to drastically change the speed within the marker.

jgilk1
05-11-2008, 02:28 AM
I removed the lines from the 3 way and can't figure out which nipple they go to...

k.macocker
05-11-2008, 06:17 PM
I removed the lines from the 3 way and can't figure out which nipple they go to...

you need to say what brand of 3 way and type of frame you have (slider or swing frame).
no matter what, the one from the lpr goes on the center 3way barb. if you get the other 2 backwards it will cycle backwards holding the block open until you pull the trigger, and then it will close the block. If your 3 way is way out of time something very siumlar can happen too.
that should give you enough to work on, and once you give the 2 pieces of info I mentioned van will give you exact instructions..
good luck,
Kmac

pump
05-11-2008, 09:00 PM
the questions i have is

how would i spring a Cocker different than a Sniper

how the hell do i time this thing

how in the world do i make an AKA Tornado valve efficient and lightly sprung

Cocker Master
07-04-2008, 03:22 AM
I would say basic beginners cocker 101 should cover

Basic Timing Techniques
Troubleshooting : Paint Chopping
Troubleshooting : Blowback
Reg adjustment
Velocity lug adjustment.
And a very basic overview about what all the parts are and what they do.

Vantrepes
07-04-2008, 02:01 PM
I have been trying to write this article, and it keeps sliding farther and farther into the advanced tech side of things.

pump
07-04-2008, 09:58 PM
i feel ya i do that all the time

just gotta do a simple timing and sweet spoting, with buttload of Endnotes!

FeWolf
07-05-2008, 01:01 AM
velocity adjustments
LPR settings
regulator adjustments

xxdabroxx
07-09-2008, 07:40 PM
this would prob be more advanced, but i would like to see someone walk through springing a marker for a lighter trigger pull.

Cocker Master
07-09-2008, 08:01 PM
this would prob be more advanced, but i would like to see someone walk through springing a marker for a lighter trigger pull.

ya, I would like that one two

BeagleGuy78
05-17-2017, 12:00 AM
I keep seeing reference to QEVs and MQ2 ... what are these items and what would be the advantage/disadvantage of having them on my autococker?

Vantrepes
05-17-2017, 12:34 AM
I keep seeing reference to QEVs and MQ2 ... what are these items and what would be the advantage/disadvantage of having them on my autococker?
The QEVs I already covered (http://www.moodypb.com/cart/index.php?main_page=page&id=18), but more recently than this thread.

An mQ, mQ1, or mQ2 is an electronically controlled valve system that replaces the entire lower tube of the gun. Here's an article on how it works. (http://www.moodypb.com/cart/index.php?main_page=page&id=13) As for why you would want one, there's two options:
It allows for a very low cocking pressure, since the hammer, and main spring is removed from the lower tube, and that can give the gun a much, much smoother cycle.
Or
It can also allow the gun to cycle faster because there isn't a main spring to be compressed by the ram.
It's also got a slightly different feel to the cycle of the gun, less chunky, even when you're going for speed.

But, like the QEVs, both of those are a trade off. If you want a smooth cycle, you aren't going to be shooting blazingly fast, and if you want blazing speed, you aren't going to be able to have the smoothest cycle you could.

cfos00
05-17-2017, 02:45 AM
Take a look at Ravi Chopra's old timing article. It was a good roadmap. I actually knew how to time a cocker before I picked one up because I read that article so much.

BabyBond
08-04-2017, 07:59 PM
From my experiences, I would keep the beginners guide to basic field use

Chrono'ing - up and down basics to get to field limits IVG or HPR adjustment (beyond that would be Moderate 102 level)
Basic maintenance - oiling, cleaning (front block using q-tips or spray water, not removing hoses, etc..)
Bolt orientation - flow hole down (seen a couple times)
For electro users - If not first day of use and experiencing issues first check battery (despite rumor most cockers don't need set-up/tuned everyday - again seen a couple times)
Use the marker several times to figure out your preferences (Don't upgrade/change anything just to change - seen a "friend" change a chrome STO 3-way to Red STO for better performance)