View Full Version : Fine Tuning - Mech Mods

06-06-2015, 08:32 PM
So I have developed a few tricks over the years that have been designed to fix a few pet peeves with my mechanical ladies and have improved duration of wear items.

1. Plenty of us know about the cocking rod spacing. But for those who don't:

When the ram is fully extended; ensure the cocking rod can still be pulled back about 1/8th inch further by adjusting the knob outward.
By properly adjusting the cocking rod you will prevent the hammer lug from impacting the slot in the body.

2. Cocking rod coming loose? Drop a 003 or 004 O-ring into the back of the hammer and bottom it out to keep that rod tight!

I used the same trick to allow me to move my KAPP beavertail out of the way quickly for easier IVG adjustments at the chrony!

3. The pump arm - Lord in heaven this has to be the most troubling wear item on any autococker.

Spacing the block and securing the ram shaft have been a plague until now:

First: Secure the ram shaft at a level that lets you space your backblock with plenty of thread available for the next step. The ram end likes to drive into the pump arm over time, but this stops it!
Bottom a 6-32 set screw out in the pump arm. (Yes, the one in the pic is the wrong thread. In place for reference.) This will reduce the depth of the hole and as such your ram will not need to be loctited in place. Very little force is used to Pull the backblock, so the pushing force always keeps the rod driving Inward.

Next: Secure the backblock. Loose backblocks strip threads over time unless secured. Teflon sucks and doesn't last.
Use 3-way orings. (Unless you are like me and have a pile of Dye 3-way o-rings lying around.) just stuff them in the hole and bottom them out until you achieve the desired tension.

Pro tip! When spacing the backblock remember that the ram will pull it closer to the body when pressurized.

4. Finally: This largely applies to mini cockers. The lack of ASA pass-thru allows excess play in the timing rod that disrupts short strokes and causes leaks.
Nevermore! File a groove in the tip of the rod and install a C-clip!

That is all for now. Keep calm and chatter-on!

06-07-2015, 12:57 PM
Nice! Great job

06-07-2015, 01:08 PM
Some clever stuff there, my man! Thanks!

06-07-2015, 01:35 PM
I used to cram a cut tank o-ring into the pump arm, and back block threads. It worked, after a LOT of trial and error to make it tighten down at the right spot.... After a while, I switched to purple loc-tite.
On a side note: You know all the old school hammers without the nyloc set screw? Cram a -004 or -003 o-ring into the back of them, and it will hold the cocking rod in place nicely.

06-07-2015, 04:08 PM
I am doing the same thing for my beavertail. Forgot to mention that trick with the hammer. Thanks Nathan!

06-07-2015, 04:14 PM
Great tips! Can we get a sticky on this? Thanks!

06-07-2015, 06:00 PM
I used to do the cut oring trick on parts, especially if I needed to tinker with them later. Now I just use a tiny dab of blue lock-tite and all is well.

06-07-2015, 06:13 PM

06-07-2015, 06:42 PM
Maybe should be in the Autococker Articles section of the forum as a guide. I'll have to ask a mod what he thinks, and maybe have it moved.

06-07-2015, 08:21 PM

def worthy of one

06-07-2015, 08:49 PM
Cut a piece of LPR hose about 1/8 inch long and jam it down the threaded cocking rod part of the hammer. This will keep it tight "anti rattle" and allow easy removal to IVG adj.

06-07-2015, 08:53 PM
Maybe should be in the Autococker Articles section of the forum as a guide. I'll have to ask a mod what he thinks, and maybe have it moved.

Great idea. Wiffle32 can do that.

06-07-2015, 11:34 PM
Great idea. Wiffle32 can do that.

Ugh. The demands!

In the words of Stuart of MadTV, "Let me do it..."