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Thread: type III anodizing

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
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    148

    type III anodizing

    do you have the capabilities of doing a true type III hard anno?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Gold Coast, Australia
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    761
    No I do not
    will only make the best no crap or can't sleep
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Riverside, CA
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    gotta be careful with that.....

    the buildup is so big that you would have to remachine a body larger to account for the "shrink"....Im doing that right now on a gov job that is +/-.0002.....after hard anno .0015-.0025 thick per side.....little ream after anno for smoothing things out Id say will be in order.....

    On something like a cocker....you would really wanna get the perfect before anodize....
    granted.....you can give a plater go/nogo pins to anodize size to....but platers are not machinists and buildup is not perfectly uniform (no matter what anyone tells you)

    anyways......
    My old Sniper I #379 was hard anodized originally. Hard as hell too....but that would work well when the markers we made by hand and slightly sloppy compared to the CNC version.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    974
    Chico Metal does a great job with their Hard anno's tolerances.

    However, the color matching is ok at best.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    258
    I know I read somewhere that the gloss hard anno from Chico was polished after anno to give it the gloss finish. Anyone know more about that? I can't find the thread...was looking for it the other day

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
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    974
    Not sure. But here was my J2L. You can see the color difference between the Body and frame. This was one of the reason why it was stopped.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    148
    Quote Originally Posted by metalmover View Post
    gotta be careful with that.....

    the buildup is so big that you would have to remachine a body larger to account for the "shrink"....Im doing that right now on a gov job that is +/-.0002.....after hard anno .0015-.0025 thick per side.....little ream after anno for smoothing things out Id say will be in order.....

    On something like a cocker....you would really wanna get the perfect before anodize....
    granted.....you can give a plater go/nogo pins to anodize size to....but platers are not machinists and buildup is not perfectly uniform (no matter what anyone tells you)

    anyways......
    My old Sniper I #379 was hard anodized originally. Hard as hell too....but that would work well when the markers we made by hand and slightly sloppy compared to the CNC version.

    This is a good point to consider. Are you referring to the inner bores shrinking because of the build up? I was considering having the tubes plugged or masked before anno and finishing them with a different method, one which does not have the build up of a type III, possibly a black oxide coating.... anyone have suggestions for finishing the bores? the irregularity of the buildup is something I was unaware of, sounds like another reason to not go with the type III on the inside of my marker.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Gold Coast, Australia
    Posts
    761
    Quote Originally Posted by peartree View Post
    This is a good point to consider. Are you referring to the inner bores shrinking because of the build up? I was considering having the tubes plugged or masked before anno and finishing them with a different method, one which does not have the build up of a type III, possibly a black oxide coating.... anyone have suggestions for finishing the bores? the irregularity of the buildup is something I was unaware of, sounds like another reason to not go with the type III on the inside of my marker.
    Just remember we are talking about paintball markers here not ultra precision life saving equipment, most markers will only be made to a 0.002 tolerance anyway so a slight build up shouldn't make any difference and the anodise is a cosmetic thing not wear resistance or all would be hard anodised
    will only make the best no crap or can't sleep
    C/F TRIGGERS AVAILABLE NOW
    http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v471/acidcustom/
    check out the link for parts available now
    http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v471/acidcustom/
    acidcustom@yahoo.com.au

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