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Thread: [Beginner] Autococker Good-to-know Tidbits

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    120

    [Beginner] Autococker Good-to-know Tidbits

    Autococker Good-to-know Tidbits

    By: ~Byte~

    1. 45 Style Frames require 45 style springs

    2. The following marker share barrel threads with Cockers
    • Rainmaker
    • Micromag
    • Matrix
    • Excalibur
    • Viking
    • Defiant
    • Intimidator
    • Emag Xtreme
    • Diamond GT

    3. Always remember to install your main bolt the right direction. The air chamber inlet port should face down towards the main valve. This is very common with new owners.

    4. If you have an adjustable pneumatics regulator and your back block gets stuck back. Reduce the pnue reg pressure to a more suitable operating pressure.

    5. If you change your trigger frame and notice the frame rubs and sticks on the timing rod, try bending the timing rod a hair to free it up or take it to a shop pro. Never attempt if you’re unsure of results.

    6. Balls WILL roll out you’re barrel if you don’t have a good paint to barrel match. The fit is the ONLY thing that prevents the balls from rolling out. The ball detent prevents multiple balls from feeding into the chamber…that’s it.

    7. Internally lube your cocker before every extended use. Do this by putting a few drops of oil into your vertical ASA (where your vertical regulator goes) and cycling the marker a few times.

    8. Cocking rods WILL come loose during play. Snug them down but do not over tighten them. (Unbelievable headache)

    9. Loose main valve set screws will cause Velocity fluctuations. It sits under the trigger frame. Make sure its tight every now and than.

    10. The Vertical ASA mounting screw is a ¼” 12 point type of screw. A ¼” 12 point socket must be used to remove it. They can be found at most good hardware stores.

    11. DON’T try to remove your main valve without a valve tool.

    12. The higher your cocking pressure the harder trigger return spring you’ll need, i.e. If you put a light return spring in, it might not cycle the 4 way. If you reduce the cocking pressure (4 way) operating pressure, it’s easier to use a light spring.

    13. Its common for new adjustable 45 frames to fit the trigger plates too tight causing them to bind or get stuck. I suggest backing off the setscrews before installing the plate and adjusting the frame after it’s all assembled and cycling the 4 way fine.

    14. Vaseline is a no-no, no matter who says what….

    15. Tapered Hammer lugs make for a shorter snappier trigger pull with retained reliability. AKALMP or Shocktech “Phat” hammer are good examples.

    16. A gauge under your gas block measures inline reg output pressure not pneu reg pressure…really.

    17. DO NOT fire your cocker with the bolt installed without the pull pin in.

    18. Only apply gas to your cocker if the back block is “cocked”. Otherwise you may vent out the barrel.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    197
    Ego's share cocker threads...right?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Spokane Washington area
    Posts
    2,378
    the "new" ule mag body now uses cocker threads as well and not the pantented twist lock barrel
    "I AM HOME"

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    hOUston
    Posts
    1,118
    Quote Originally Posted by Byte View Post
    14. Vaseline is a no-no, no matter who says what….
    Says who. My WGP manual for my E-Orracle specifically says to use vaseline.

    Also, when putting oil in the marker it say to remove the cocking rod. Does that make sense to anyone?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    37
    Dangerous Power guns use cocker threads, or at least the g3 does.

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