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Thread: AKA Trigger Plate Question

  1. #1

    AKA Trigger Plate Question

    I will try to keep this brief. A few weeks back I purchased an AKA trigger plate (98+) to install in a Meteor Classic frame. After install, I noticed that the sear sat fairly low (close to) the top of the frame and it seems like no matter how far drop the lug, it will not catch. I should also note that the seer I was using is a WGP Roller. Has anyone else had issues with the angle at which their sear sits when using the AKA trigger plate?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Missouri
    Posts
    1,046
    WGP sears (hinge and slider) are identical. The different sear version is for the eblades.

    Not sure why you're having issues with an AKALMP TRIGGER PLATE + WGP ROLLER SEAR as I use that exact combination (in a different frame) without any issue. It might just be the frame you're using. However I did have trouble with a BELSALES ROLLER SEAR with an AKALMP TRIGGER PLATE working properly when paired together.

    Although excessively expensive, the new shocktech roller sear (the one where sear angle locations can be altered for oddly drilled sear pin location frames - like some of the ones ST unloaded into the wild) might be of use.

    https://shocktechusa.com/roller-sear.html

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Los Angeles, formerly Western MA
    Posts
    712
    I'm using an AKA plates and belsales roller in a featherlight frame and it works just fine for me.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Middle Tennessee
    Posts
    2,621
    Could it be the sear spring?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Medford, OR
    Posts
    2,750
    I came across that problem, I fixed it by using the Shocktech roller sear.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Puyallup, Wa
    Posts
    1,852
    no my stock sear and plate seem to be really low as well
    " Happy little slaves for minimum wages "

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    53
    Leon,

    Did you ever get to the bottom of this? I had considered this combo as well.

  8. #8
    Apologize for the late response. The height issue of the sear is actually no longer the case. I can't really say what it is that was not letting the lug catch but it ended up working. However, I have another issue at this point. The AKA trigger plate hole where the actuator rod slides into, is more oval or "oblong" than round. The issue now is that a regular round ended actuator rod remains immovable until the "front and rear" ends of the actuator rod hole in the trigger plate make contact with the rod due to excess space. I have physically seen the AKA actuator rods and they are more "rectangular" at the point that inserts into the trigger plate thereby removing all the slack but AKA no longer carries them.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    386
    pre 98 cockers are all like that - will still be able to time the gun and shoot, should be ok. they used to make flat ended timing rods to more 'fill the gap' and tighten up the timing but u cant find them anymore. sometimes u can find em used

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Medford, OR
    Posts
    2,750
    Just want to add to this. I have found, on average, that the timing rod slot on Meteor frames are about .06 shorter than most standard cocker frames (Belsales, Benchmark, ANS etc). Which doesn't allow the sear to raise as far. I was having issues with sear over traveling on the trigger plate and going past the ramp and onto the flat section on the trigger plates. This was with WGP, Kapp, AKA, and Shocktech plates. Just to note I have 10 Meteor classic frames that I pulled dimensions off of. I fixed this by machining the slot .05 farther forward, and filling in the AKA slotted plate with JB weld and drilling a single hole.
    Last edited by evil_racecocker; 10-27-2018 at 09:44 AM.

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