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Thread: Slight break down of the Sovereign I (exploded)

  1. #1
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    Oct 2006
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    Slight break down of the Sovereign I (exploded)

    Well, I finally got one. This thing is great.. Rather than a separate ram and bolt like on the more familiar autococker. The creators intergrated the 2 together to create a ram-bolt. The ram-bolt works much like a ram-hammer on a timmy/impulse/tribal and most other stack tubed electros. But the ram-hammer on those markers is an enclosed cylinder that slips into the tube of the body. On the ram-bolt it uses the body tube as the actual cylinder and the bolt is the "ram shaft". Which means some method of preventing the bolt from going too far forward or backward had to be created. So to accomplish this, there is a thin brass or stainless ring that is around the center of the bolt with inner outer orings, and the bolt slides back and forth within this ring. And the ring divides the front and rear air port like the head of the shaft on a standard cocker ram. But reversed the function so rather than the shaft moving, the entire "ram/bolt" moves while the divider ring remains in place. This ring is held in place by the thumb screw located on the top of the body. Now like on a cocker, the bolt is not connected directly to the hammer. But the ram-bolt pushes the back block back when it cycoles, thus pulling the hammer back by way of a cocking rod (much like an autococker in that aspect). So the air leading to the "ram/bolt" enters directly into the upper tube of the body (which is the ram).
    The Sovereign places the 3 way directly on the side of the trigger frame. This makes for much shorter lp hose and in return less cocking air consumption (than if it was on the front end), cleans up the front end, and makes timing rod binding almost non-existant. The frame uses a standard cocker sear with a pre98 cocker style trigger plate. The sear spring is much shorter than a cocker, but the trigger return spring looks basically the same. The LPR is located directly on the front of the front block/vertical asa assembly much like on a spyder. The unique part is when you remove the front block assembly, the valve is threaded into it. Once it is removed the valve can be unscrewed from the end of the front block assembly. So no valve guide screws or jam nuts are needed.

    CONS:
    The only disadvantages of the Sovereign (that I see as of yet) is bolt weight cannot be reduced nearly as much as compared to a cocker. And "quick bolt removal" is not in the Sovereigns vocabulary with the added removal of the top thumb screw. And when putting the bolt back into the body the divider ring must be algined with the thumb screw hole before putting the thumb screw back into place.
    The other major issue is the fact that the frame must be taken off to adjust the lug, like cockers were pre97. It's like a regulator that's not externally adjustable, not a problem, but just much more time consuming..

    PROS:
    When the Sovereign was designed it was done so with the tournment player in mind. The Sovereign has a much lighter and smaller body and creates a much cleaner look than that of any Autococker of the same time period. The Sovereign trigger frames are much smoother than any WGP slider ever thought about..

    The
    More later on a SOV II, hehe..


    Kmac
    the complete marker



    back block assembled



    body hammer back block assembly



    Hammer back block assembly in the body, and a pic of the ram/bolt..
    Imagine you have a cocker ram hooked up with long low pressure hoses and unscrewed from the body. You grab the threads of the ram shaft, and then start pulling the trigger. The shaft will not move, but the entire ram moves on the shaft. That is basically how the ram-bolt works.
    The thumb screw enters the top of the body holding the brass center ring (which represents what would be the head of the ram shaft) stationary so the bolt will move (like the ram body in the above description).
    The lp hoses enters the upper tube of the body by way of the barbs you see on the side. Pretty much making the top tube of the marker a ram.....
    Last edited by k.macocker; 03-02-2007 at 09:07 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    valve (see threads) hammer, and cocking rod..



    front block assembly with lpr and vert asa. The valve just screws directly into the end that enters the body.. valve spring goes inside first of course..



    the valve



    body size compared to a mini cocker with inverted "P" block.
    Last edited by k.macocker; 02-27-2007 at 08:54 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Hopkinsville, KY
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    the trigger frame assembly has a 45 frame that removes from the trigger guard assembly.



    and the 3 way and timing rod...

    other side..


    for more pics go to SOV I

    I have a sov II up soon..
    Last edited by k.macocker; 02-27-2007 at 08:57 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Johnson City, Tn
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    Nice:d
    As for me and my house, we will serve the Lord. Joshua 24:15

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Hopkinsville, KY
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    Well, I was lucky enough to finally get the sov II in my possion up and running today. And the improved bolt design cycles much much better than than the Sov I in the above pictures. it also elimanates the back block so much less cycling mass. I will do a detailed write up with some pic when I get a chance.
    Kmac
    Last edited by k.macocker; 10-16-2008 at 06:53 PM.

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