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Thread: Racegun Q&A/FACTS sticky

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Hopkinsville, KY
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    11,495

    Post Racegun Q&A/FACTS sticky

    PLEASE DO NOT POST HERE UNTIL I STATE THIS THREAD IS OPEN FOR POSTING. WE HAVE TO PUT IN A FEW THINGS FIRST...
    thanks guys.
    With what seems to be the fall of the racegun site, this is a sticky dedicated to the race gun, here is a post by NewRaceOwner to get it started. He has some other good info that should be posted here soon. when he is finished I will open this thread for public posting, until then any posts will be deleted..
    thank you again guys,
    and a special thanks to NewRaceOwner for being so helpful!!! We love guys like you
    Kmac



    Quote Originally Posted by NewRaceOwner
    The Racegun/Raceframe sear has been the same ever since it's inception...in fact, the sear, and rollercage assembly is technically the only patented part in the Raceframes...

    externally, there have been a few changes, although most have been primarily cosmetic, with the exceptions being as follows:

    The change from pinned trigger (that used a rod behind the trigger to actuate the microswitch) to pinless, as the one seen in your last "E-cocker frame" thread post...

    The various changes in 5-way/front noid housing, from the ungainly sheet metal monstrosity that encased the original HUGE SMC noid, and then again when they first went to the slightly smaller, and most widely known SMC noid...then the machined noid housing that sild onto your frontblock sideways, much the same as the sheet metal predecessor, but far better in regards to cosmetics...then the integrated noid housing and front block combo (also known as the "E-block"), followed by the introduction of the F-1 noid (the one shown in the Half-block pic) which was much smaller than the SMC noid, and rumored to be faster as well, which initially offered both an "E-block" or a screw-in housing, similar to the ones made famous by the e-blade series of e-frames...

    various minor cosmetic differences, mostly consisting of better radius's (radii?) on the gripframe...

    and the last change was a choice between a hump trigger or a blade-style trigger, and the optional larger trigger guard, also shown on the halfblock picture in the last post...


    you also missed one other incarnation of the Raceframe...you mentioned the ANS version, but skipped the Freeflow Professional, that offered a 9-volt option, to do away with the charger, and rechargeable battery...but in order to fit the 9-volt, they had to mill the rear portion of the frame extremely thin to make room...Raceguns never officially supported the 9-volt version, so never produced updated firmware for them...so many of the original Freeflow frames have been updated to use the rechargables, to take advantage of the newer firmwares which offer infinitely adjustable ramping, and pretty much every other firing mode imaginable, including a "training" mode which, when used, cycles the back block just as it would in live fire mode, but does not activate the "sear-noid" keeping it from firing...giving you the feel of the marker kicking in your hands as if in live fire mode...

    the Raceguns forums seem to have vanished sadly within the last week or so...I was recently made a Mod there, and named their (the folks in Denmark) US Tech a few months back, so if you ever have any questions regarding Raceguns, or frames, please don't hesitate to ask...I also offer tech services to those unable to perform them themselves...
    Last edited by k.macocker; 10-13-2008 at 11:22 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Spokane, WA
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    4,807

    Operating the grip:

    THE FOLLOWING IS A DIRECT COPY (WITH ONE GRAMMATICAL EDIT, CUZ IT BUGGED ME) OF THE RACEGUN OPERATING MANUAL...OVER THE NEXT FEW DAYS, I'LL BE ADDING MORE INFORMATION, AS I FIND TIME...

    AS K.MAC REQUESTED, PLEASE HOLD QUESTIONS 'TIL THE END, SO AS TO PRESERVE THE CONTINUITY...IF YOU HAVE SPECIFIC QUESTIONS NOT COVERED BY SOMETHING HERE, FEEL FREE TO PM ME...I'LL BE HAPPY TO HELP


    This section covers normal operation.
    This guide assumes that you have Firmware revision 2.0.2x or higher in your rip – if that is not the case some of the features might not work as described.

    Buttons, lights and plugs:
    Located on the back of the grip are 3 buttons, a 2-color indicator (LED) and a data/charging plug.

    The 3 buttons marked 0, ^, and v and the LED are used for all operations on the grip described in the sections below. Many additional operations and features are accessible using the PC-interface this is covered in the Racegun Interface Program Manual accompanying the PC-software. See www.raceguns.dk for a complete description of the Racegun Interface Program (RIP) series of software.


    Turning on and off:
    Turn on the grip by pressing 0 for half a second. The computer will do a self-test and return the 5-way valve to the starting position. Do not press any other buttons or the trigger during this operation. When the grip is ready, the green LED light, indicating the marker is ready and safe. To turn the grip off make sure the LED is green – then press and hold until the grip beeps.

    Safety:
    A green LED indicates that the marker is safe. Press 0 and V simultaneously for one second. A short beep will sound and the LED turns red, indicating the marker is live and ready to fire. Press 0 and V briefly to return to safe mode. Three beeps will sound and the LED will turn green, indicating the marker is on and safe.

    Game Timer:
    The Racegun Computer Grip has a built in countdown timer with alarm, that can be set to any desired number of minutes. The timer can be started, stopped and reset by using the buttons on the grip. Activating the timer and setting the prewarning and timer length is only possible from your PC using the Racegun Interface Program (RIP).

    Activating the timer:
    You activate the timer by pressing and holding the ^ button while the gun is in live mode (the LED is red) until it emits 4 beeps (approximately 4 seconds) -the game timer will start counting down from the preset time when the trigger is pulled the first time after activating the timer. When the timer has counted down the preset length of time, the grip will emit short beeps until the timer is stopped or reset. If the tickbox “Sound alert 60 sec. before game end” is enabled in the RIP software the grip will emit a beep 60 seconds before the specified time is up.

    Stopping the alarm:
    You stop the alarm by pressing the V button.

    Stopping the timer:
    You stop the timer by putting the grip in safe mode.

    Resetting the timer:
    You reset the timer by putting the grip in safe mode.

    Controlling the Anti Chop Eye (ACE):
    If your gun is equipped with an anti chop eye it is possible to enable and disable the use of the Eye from the grip keypad. When the gun is in live mode (red LED) press and hold the ^ and V buttons simultaneously until the grip beeps to toggle anti chop eye operation. One beep indicates that the anti chop eye is now enabled, 3 beeps indicates the Anti Chop Eye is disabled.

    Controlling the LOAD time (LT):
    It is possible to change the specified load time of you grip by using the keypad. The load time is the time that the grip keeps the bolt in the open position, allowing a ball to drop from the loader into the breech of the gun. The load time depends a lot on the hopper you use, current products on the market allows load times in the range of 10-40 milliseconds. When the gun is in safe mode (green LED) press and hold the ^ button until the grip beeps three times – this sets the load time to 35 milliseconds (note the load time is set to 35 milliseconds every time this procedure is started). Using the ^ and V buttons you can now increase or decrease your load time in steps of 1 millisecond. The selected time is saved when the 0 button is held for 2 seconds (grip beeps twice).
    Lowering the load time of your gun will increase the rate of fire – finding the optimum settings for your gun is a trial and error process, try lowering the settings 2 milliseconds at the time until the gun start chopping then return to the last working settings.
    This function should not be used on guns fitted with the anti chop eye.

    Battery:
    The battery is nickel metal-hydride (NiMH) and do not have any memory effect of NiCD batteries. You do not need to discharge it completely before recharging and frequent short time charging does not damage it. The battery are good for at least 15.000 shots on a charge - 40.000 shots per charge are not uncommon - under normal conditions, but capacity is affected by extreme cold or heat. Capacity will slowly decrease when the batteries are stored over long periods. A periodic recharge is recommended every 2 weeks or so.
    The included charger operates at 100-240V AC and 50-60Hz, only the pins for the wall socket are country specific. If you go abroad you only need a travel kit for the wall plug, not a transformer.

    Warning! The battery must not become hotter than +45°C (113°F) or colder than –10°C (14°F). Capacity drops off rapidly outside these temperature limits and the batteries can be damaged and ultimately explode. Do not leave your grip in direct sunlight or extreme heat.

    Warning! If you ever need to unplug the battery please use pliers to unplug the small plug – do not yank the wires.

    Charging the batteries:
    Insert the charger into your mains (or auto 12V DC outlet if using the auto cable) and the data/charge plug into the female plug in the back of the grip. The charging will start, indicated by a slow red/green flashing of the LED. When the charging is complete only the green LED will flash. When you disconnect the charger, the grip will flash as if it’s charging for 10-20 seconds before it detects the absence of the charger. Use only the included charger for your grip. You can damage your batteries and electronics by using the wrong charger. The grip has its own charging circuits, protecting against overcharging, short circuiting etc. but only to a certain degree.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Spokane, WA
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    4,807

    5 minute timing guide

    Make sure your gun has air, a barrel plug or bag, and you don’t have any paint in the gun.

    Download the RIP software. www.racegun.dk See downloads page.

    Hook up the Grip to your PC or Palm while in safe mode (green light).

    Turn the RIP to the following settings:
    Expert Mode ON
    Close = Open Off
    Fire Mode ‘Semi-Auto’

    To tune the Dwell and Shot it takes paint and time. For the most part, most guns work just fine set to 7 or 8 milliseconds.

    Turn your Open to 35
    Turn you Load to 1
    Turn your Close to 30

    Double-check to make sure there is no paint in the gun. “Funny how it creeps in there sometimes” said the one eyed man.

    Without making to much noise for your neighbors/parents/wife, keeping the barrel plug/whatever in, and or flip the bolt then cycle the gun a couple of times to see if it shoots.

    If the Gun fires just fine, you can drop the Open time 5 ms at a time. Till it starts ‘Burping’. If the Gun ‘Burps’ because the sear isn’t connecting, then you raise the Open time.

    After you play around with these adjustments, you will find out how fast your Ram takes to open by the Millisecond.

    For figuring out how fast your Load is time it depends on your loader. If you feel brave, adjust the times lower. If you Chop, raise the Load. If your gun has blowback, you will need to up the Load.

    Here is a guideline:
    For a VL Rev: Load is between a 25-35 ms load. If you have the new paddles and an X-board the Load can be low.
    For the Ricochet: Load is between 25-35 ms.
    For the HALO: Only 10 Milliseconds are needed for the most part. If you are scared, run at 15.
    For the Warp: With a good setup, and maybe the Warp cable, you can run with a 10-millisecond load, like the HALO.

    For Close timing, set it a little lower than the Open, by 10-20% depending on your setup.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Spokane, WA
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    Freekick adjustment guide

    THE PICTURES THAT WERE INCLUDED IN THE ORIGINAL FREEKICK ADJUSTMENT GUIDE LEFT ALOT TO BE DESIRED, SO I WILL BE ADDING MY OWN IN THE NEAR FUTURE...FOR NOW IT'S JUST THE TEXT

    Racegun has invented this little modification to increase the power of the sear release called the FreeKICK. This modification is now standard on the new grips leaving Racegun Fortunately for everybody with "older" grips this modification is backwards compatible which means that everybody who has a Racegun grip can install it if they want to!

    In simple terms this modification allows the solenoid a little head start before it comes in contact with the sear actuator (The U piece with the roller on top). This is done by installing a little spacer on the solenoid that leaves a small gap between the solenoid pin and the sear actuator. This increases the "kick" that releases the sear (well lug I guess is more correct), giving positive sear release with up to 50% higher load on the sear.
    Disclaimer: Don't hold me responsible if you mess up doing this modification!

    If you are satisfied with the performance of your grip don't mess with it (Why fix it if it ain't broken).

    This modification requires partial disassembly of the grip and the use of some tools (NO not a sledgehammer) - if you are comfortable with this lets get on with the actual thing.

    AGAIN, SORRY FOR THE TEMPORARY LACK OF PICS I'LL TRY TO GET THEM POSTED ASAP

    Here is a picture of the spacer (some of the Racegun guys likes to call it a shim) - the screw next to it is a standard 10-32 for size reference.

    Here you can see the gap between the solenoid pin and the sear actuator after the modification.

    This is how it's done:
    Take the grip of the gun and loosen the solenoid from the grip (by loosening the solenoid lock screw on the left side of the frame with a 3/32 hex key) - remove any spacers (small squares of plastic) that might be behind the solenoid pin, glued to the frame.
    Check if there is room for the spacer on the right side of the solenoid by trying to slide it in. If there is not enough room for the spacer you have to shave a little material off the solenoid itself - do this very carefully (we are talking about 1/10 (0,1 millimeter) of a millimeter) using a small file or a Dremel with the appropriate tool. Make sure that you get all the metal dust of the solenoid before reinstalling it in the grip.

    Put everything into the grip but DO NOT tighten the screw that holds the solenoid in place. Make sure you set the solenoid correctly (all the way in) and take care that the wires are not damaged or in the way of the operation of the solenoid.

    Now comes the tricky part of adjusting this thing - to do this we need a "tool/gauge" that is 6/10 (0,6 millimeter) of a millimeter thick. We have found that if you cut out a piece of the Tippmann advert on the backside of APG (Action Pursuit Games)measuring roughly 10 millimeters by 100 millimeters and fold it 4 times (look at picture) you will have a spacer that is 0,6 millimeter thick. FOR THOSE NOT VERSED IN METRIC, YOU NEED A .024 SHIM

    Some of you might have a more "normal" tool that can be used.
    Note - Do not use Paintball Sports International or PGI their quality is much
    to low ( paper quality that is)!

    Put the tool behind the solenoid pin.

    Adjust the FreeKICK spacer in front of the solenoid so that the sear actuator is just touching the solenoid pin (you might want to use some smaller pliers than me).

    Then tighten the solenoid lock screw (don't overdo it - just snug it up and then a slight nudge) making sure nothing moves around.

    Remove the tool from behind the solenoid pin and notice that you now have a small gap between the solenoid pin and the sear actuator (tilt the frame a bit forward to let the solenoid pin drop back).

    You might be able to tweak this a bit by increasing the gap to more than the 0,6 millimeters (getting more kick) but at some point the solenoid stops working - this is a good indication that you have made the gap to big
    Seriously 0,6 millimeters seems to be working pretty good for now.

    Reassemble you gun and go play some ball!!

    Oh yeah I almost forgot! If you send an e-mail to support@racegun.dk they will mail you a FreeKICK spacer free of charge - remember to include your full snail mail address and the serial number of your Racegun grip - please put FreeKICK in the subject line of the e-mail. If you can't wait to get one shipped to you from Denmark you can make it yourself out of some thin sheet metal (0,1 millimeters).

    You need a piece roughly 10 millimeters by 10 millimeters - fold it in a L shape with one side 7,5 millimeters and the other 2,5 millimeters (math is great) - You need to find some source for the actual material it needs to fairly stiff (actually a 0,004" feeler gauge might do the job) - do not use a Coke can it's much to soft!

    P.S. if you are not into millimeters you can convert the numbers yourself - 1 inch is 25,4 millimeters.

    STAY HIP PLAY SAFE
    Morten Jensen
    support@raceguns.dk

    I, IN NO WAY, GUARANTEEE YOU'LL GET ANY RESPONSE FROM RACEGUNS.DK AND WOULD BE INCREDIBLY SURPRISED IF ANYONE EVER HEARD FROM MORTEN IN REGARDS TO RACEGUNS EVER AGAIN

  5. #5
    Race Frames Rock!

  6. #6

    Charger and Data Cable

    Do you know if it is possible to make a charger and data cable.

    I have looked everywhere and it seems that no one has any clue where to get a charger or data cable. So I was thinking that I might be able to grab some parts from radio shack and just build my own. Do you know if this is possible??

  7. #7
    You could contact people on the Racegun forums and see if you get any luck there. Other than that I don't think you can make one without finding the special port that race uses. I'm sure you could contact newraceowner and you could send your gun to him for setup and then he might part with a charger if you tempted him with the right price. he has said it before. Other than that your only other option is to pickup another race frame that has the charger and data cable.
    Round body Merlin, Evil-M, 03' Viking, Inception Designs

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Spokane, WA
    Posts
    4,807
    ok...here's a little tidbit of info...jonny2 @ Raceguns in Denmark says he's going to try having around 100 or so new data cables built...no word on how long this will take, or how much this is going to cost, but due to the high demand for them (what are people doing with them?? eating them?!?!) he's stepping up and filling the need...dunno about the chargers though...he hasn't said anything in that regard...

  9. #9
    Thanks for the info guys I really appreciate it.

    I had a few more questions.....

    Do you know if different versions of the racegun, used different chargers/data cables? I just bought a Freeflow and Im not sure if all the chargers and data cables are the same or if I should make sure to buy one specific for the freeflow racegun.

    Also, Is there special software for this gun? What exactly is the data cable used for?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Spokane, WA
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    Freeflow made the only production 9-volt version of the frame...in doing so, they were forced to mill the back (spine) of the gripframe quite thin (unbearably thin in my opinion...I've got a toast one to prove it )...so if you're still using the 9-volt battery in it, it can only be used with the 9-volt firmware...otherwise, the cables are the same...data cable, and, if you're running rechargable, charging cable...

    the data cable is used for adjusting your settings, and modes of fire, plus updating firmware, etc...

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